Wednesday, April 22, 2009

A Great Place for a Family: Bullfinch's, Sudbury

It is not easy to find a restaurant where you genuinely believe you could happily taken an extended family. But at Bullfinch's in Sudbury, the lovely atmosphere, the kind service, the incredibly diverse menu and the attention to children makes this a wonderful choice for large celebrations or a small dinner for four. The restaurant has a number of special touches that make it so flexible. First, they offer not only a regular menu, but a vegetarian and gluten-free one, too. In addition, children eat free on Sunday which means parents can have a nice meal and save quite a bit of money. Finally, even the regular menu offers the flexibility of two different portion sizes which makes it adaptable for many people.

From the moment we walked in, we appreciated that our children were treated so warmly. (We were treated by Bullfinchs to this meal.) They loved that they were given trinkets throughout the meal. This meant that our little guys were entertained, despite there not being a TV or games throughout the restaurant. Instead, they were content with wiki-sticks (a great wax-covered creative toy), books, a mini Etch-A-Sketch and a straw that lit up. The food also kept them busy-first we got a warm loaf of delicious bread, in addition to crackers for the kids. But the children's menu itself had just enough safe food (spaghetti), food that was a bit less familiar (pasta alfredo) and well made food (homemade chicken fingers) to keep all of us happy.

My sons enjoyed their meals. I was pleased that David ate as much of his grilled chicken as his fries, while Raphael was far more content to devour his "Smiley fries" than to eat his chicken tenders. Their meal came with ice cream which was brought while we were still eating our main dishes, giving us a few precious extra minutes to eat.

Our food was fine. Our salad consisted of a plate of greens, cold beets with toasted walnuts and shaved Parmesan. For a main dish my husband had short ribs with "tomato jam." While the ribs were tender, they were overshadowed by the fact that the dish was a bit too sweet. He enjoyed it more the next day with a side of mustard. However his "frites" were dark, fresh, and addictive.

My dish was good. In a riff on chowder, the dish consisted roasted salmon sitting on a creamy sauce laced with corn, potatoes, bacon and parsley. Though the salmon was just a bit overdone (the warm sauce continued to cook the fish), it was comforting food on a cold, rainy night. It was even good the next day.

By the time we finished eating the main dishes, Raphael was clearly ready to go, so we chose to take our desserts to go. While my husband enjoyed them, I found the chocolate mousse and the sorbets to be lacking a depth of flavor and really too sweet overall. Long story short-we will probably skip desserts next time, which isn't necessarily a bad thing for us!

And for us, there will be a next time. The restaurant was much closer than we thought-near Natick, Framingham, Wayland and Weston right on Route 20. More importantly, the flexibility and warmth make this a great alternative for those nights that cooking a meal (and doing the dishes!) is just too daunting.

Monday, April 20, 2009

A Puddin' Party

Watching my son finger paint in the bathtub, I realized he hadn't yet experienced one of my all time favorite activities as a child: pudding painting. As soon as I mentioned the idea, my son began laughing and insisting that it was "So silly, mommy." Admittedly, I have historically bought chocolate pudding mix, forgetting how ridiculously simple it is to make. Most recipes include an egg, but since my kids are allergic, I simply dropped it from the recipe. The final version wasn't necessarily award-winning (it wasn't rich enough), but it worked beautifully for painting (and licking off of fingers). For parents who want to avoid a mess, a friend shared a great idea: Tape paper in the bathtub, give your children the pudding and let them have a great time, just washing them and the bathtub off when you are done.


Chocolate Pudding
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2 Tbsp cornstarch
Pinch of salt
2 cups whole milk

Heat it all up, whisking frequently over medium heat until it is thick about 3 to 5 minutes. Take it off the heat, and put it in the refrigerator waiting until it cool to eat (and play with it!)

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Don't Overlook This Gem: Tomasso Trattoria, Southborough

You would have thought we had brought the little boys, but instead it was us dueling with forks over the last precious bites of our hazelnut crusted, goat cheese and lime zest filled crostada. This dessert was just one part of a meal that really went far beyond our expectations when we ate recently at Tomasso Trattoria in Southborough. Wait-KEEP READING! To be honest, even for us the address made us hesitant to head out West. But, not only was it less than 20 minutes from Natick Center (and right of the Mass. Pike), but Tomasso is worth a much longer drive as the restaurant offers exceptional ingredients executed beautifully.  In addition, to our pleasure, Tomasso's offered to treat us to this meal. 

In terms of atmosphere, this would be a great place to go for a date or a celebration. It is definitely not stuffy or pretentious, but it is also worth noting that is energetic and tables are close enough to see what everyone else is eating.  In other words, it may not be the best place for an intimate meal for two. However, it is fun for a night out and many tables consisted of large groups sharing plates of appetizers. The servers were warm, friendly and knowledgeable about the food. In fact, one of my favorite aspects of our waitress was how she steered us, without trying to romanticize every dish on the menu.

Somehow I had missed that Tomasso is one of those restaurants that makes everything from scratch using as much local food as possible-vegetables from Verrill Farm, organic and hormone free meat from the Northeast Family Farm Collective, fish from local fisherman, dairy products from Crystal Brook Farm and High Lawn Farm. To me, supporting local food producers isn't just political-the food is often fantastic as I have discussed in many previous posts. I also don't know of that many restaurants in the Metrowest/Route 9 corridor that are making a concerted effort to support local foods like Tomasso. (If you do, add a comment!)

And at Tomasso even the food that isn't local is still wonderful. For example, on both visits I have so loved the olive oil that is served with their focaccia and wasn't surprised to find out that they buy it directly from a vineyard in Calabria, Italy. The texture is almost creamy,with a peppery bite as it goes down.

The style of food is Tuscan, and the menu is pretty lengthy. It also varies seasonally so that they can take better advantage of what is available. We actually were offered the meal at Tomassos just before the spring menu took effect, but hopefully our meal will give a sense of what they offer. 

Although Tomasso offers a wide range of grilled vegetables and other antipasti, I started with Maryland soft shell crabs. They were lightly fried with just enough salt and pepper and served our watercress with blood oranges. The crabs were delicious, as was the salad, though it would have benefited from a bit less dressing to let the flavors of the cress and citrus through.

My husband enjoyed a small pizza. It was perfectly blistered and was incredibly light. Although they have a few options, he kept it simple and tried one with bufala mozzarella, pureed tomatoes and fresh basil. Their pizzas could work as appetizers for a few adults or a light main dish for a child.

My second course was pretty heavenly. It was a huge homemade ravioli filled with creamy marscapone cheese, black truffle and an egg yolk.  It was covered in a thin sauce with scallions and grated Parmesan. What this meant was that when I cut into it the flavors melded together and were scented with the truffle oil. I could eat this for breakfast every day (and, yes, have a heart attack!) This was rich and so good that I almost lapped it up. Instead I just reached for more bread.

My husband stands by his claim that his main dish was the best version of short ribs that he ever had. They redefined the phrase "meltingly tender."  The parsnip puree was a sweet and perfect bed for the red wine reduction and as a contrast to the rich ribs. Our waitress had pointed out that their portions aren't huge, and in fact, in this case, the two ribs were just enough to enjoy it without feeling overwhelmed.

I had a simple but delicious sole that was covered with a scattering of still crunchy slivered almonds.  It was redolent of olive juice and served with wonderful warmed olives on the side.

Finally, our desserts. While the gelato was creamy, it tasted primarly...cold...as opposed to full of flavor.  I tasted milk, than almond, rather than pure amaretto, for example. However, that didn't prevent FoodieDaddy from devouring it! He also enjoyed the "Budino" or lemon pudding.  While I think this is one of those cliched desserts, what separated it from others were segments of grapefruit and blood oranges that brightened the dish as a whole.

So, back to where it all began. We had enjoyed our meal tremendously. But then we were served, the crostada. And it was truly fantastic.  The hazelnut crust alone could be worth the trip to Tomasso. It was perfect-crumbly and crunchy, salty and sweet and full of hazelnut chunks. The goat cheese was fruity and smooth without being overpowering. Lime zest added a perfect contrast and lightened the dish. However, the honey, ironically, rather than adding too much sweetness added a smooth note. If you are lucky this will still be on the menu when you go.

The reality of Tomasso is that it isn't cheap. Everything is a la carte and it could add up. So, a few thought.  You could take the kids-there are 8 "kitchen-side" seats that would be great fun, and a small children's menu (with pizza and pasta in the $8.00 range). Or you could leave them home and have a relaxing meal. There is also a $30.00 prix fixe during the week and, finally, if you just had a few appetizers or a small pasta (I ate their bolognese on a previous visit and still remember how good it was), you could keep the cost to around $20.00.

Lastly, though, this meal was not just good. It was excellent. And knowing that the bill goes, in part, back to the community somehow makes it that much easier to actually feel really good about eating out.


Monday, April 13, 2009

Fabulous Flourless Chocolate Cookies

These cookies are fantastic for so many reasons. First, they are absolutely delicious. In fact, I will warn that they are pretty addictive. They are chewy and chocolaty without being too rich. The walnuts add a crunch and bite. If you cook them perfectly the edges are just crispy enough. They are also so simple that you can make them in minutes. Finally, the fact that they are flour-free means that they can be enjoyed by people who are on gluten free diets, are allergic to wheat or are celebrating Passover. They are also pretty low in fat, though I doubt that eating 6 in one sitting qualifies them as diet cookies!

Instead of retyping a great recipe just click here. The directions from New York Magazine are particularly clear and come with diagrams! The original recipe is from the amazing Francois Payard (if you ever can, do eat his creations in Paris.)

Monday, April 6, 2009

Best of Both Worlds: Family Friendly Nights At Aura, Boston

It isn't every day that you can eat out at a high end restaurant, enjoying a complex soup, while your kids play freely surrounded by puzzles, blocks and toy cars.

But at Aura, Rachel Klein, chef and mother to a 20 month old son, has tried to create a restaurant setting that combines the joys of eating out with a relaxing atmosphere that is so rare for parents of young children. On Tuesday and Friday nights from 5:30 to 8:00 p.m., a frosted door is drawn to separate out the main dining room and to create a space for families. It means that you can sit together and have a great meal, but to still be adjacent to a play space

We were lucky to be invited by Aura to try out their family friendly nights. This set up has so many benefits. First, and most importantly, I didn't feel the stress of time. I knew that Raphael would be able to play while we waited for the food and as soon as he and David were done, they could jump down. Ironically, at home they struggle to play independently, but here, surrounded by other children and the novelty of new toys, they were in heaven. My kids were the first to arrive and the quickly jumped into discovering the play tent, the wagon and the pretend food.Second, the controlled chaos of the children's area made it that much easier to enjoy the food as I didn't feel the tension that they were interrupting the dinners.

None of this, though, should distract from the reality that the food was delicious. Chef Klein designed the kind of good food that she feeds her son. Babies get a great option: a "complimentary" (and beautiful) plate of freshly pureed vegetables (pictured at the top of the post). Here, that means carrots and rutabaga, apple and pears! Toddlers have a wonderful range of dishes. Raphael enjoyed freshly roasted turkey, alongside a homemade cranberry sauce. (Confession, I loved it. It was so tart that Raphael made a face!)

There are homemade chicken tenders, pizza, noodles and mac and cheese among other things. But here sides include cider glazed carrots and sweet potato fries. And each good sized serving (which comes with a side dish and one dessert) is $7.00.

For parents, the seasonal menu currently consists of a prix fixe for $30.00 (the average price of an entree on the regular menu). You may choose from 2 appetizers, 3 main dishes and 2 desserts. My husband and I both loved our first courses. I had a luscious soup.

It was creamy, with perfectly cooked and smoked shrimp, the bite of greens and a subtle saltiness of little cubes of chewy Chinese sausage. My husband had a perfectly dressed plate of arugula with thinly sliced pears and nicely roasted beets. (Photo at the top of the post) He would rather eat ice cream that salad, but he ate the whole plate!

Of our two main courses, my husband's really shone. His chicken was perfectly browned and crisp, while still retaining the moistness of the meat. The skin was fantastic-flavorful, with just enough salt.

The cider reduction provided a subtle but delicious sweetness alongside his greens and fingerling potatoes.

I had the pork. I typically eat roast pork at Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants, so I won't pledge to be an expert here, but it was definitely the weakest part of the meal as it was dry (perhaps victim to trying to time the meals before kids had total meltdowns!).

However, the rest of the dish was fantastic. The mashed potatoes were the creamy, rich type. They went perfectly with a side of kale that was not only delicious but the bite was perfectly balanced with the sweet roasted grapes. They were so good that they could convince anyone to eat more leafy greens!

The desserts were both good, though they were more pedestrian than the other dishes: the ubiquitous creme brulee and a light rice pudding with a raisin pate of sorts. And I still ate all the caramelized sugar off the top of my brulee!

When the meal ended, we had to convince our children that, yes, they did have to leave the restaurant and go home. As we left, Raphael said, "Mommy, that restaurant was fun. I liked my toys and my friends and my ice cream." One week later, he is still asking to go back.

Aura isn't the easiest restaurant to find if you don't know the Seaport area, but it is just walking distance from the ICA and a few blocks from the Children's Museum. The reality is that not all parents can afford $74.00 for a night out. However, add in the cost of a babysitter and it is easy for an evenings out to easily top $100.00, even at a chain restaurant. This is a unique and different experience. For us it meant a truly fun evening out with the children while we enjoyed outstanding food. So visit the ICA or the Children's Museum and then stop over here.

For more information, you can check out the main Aura website, the schedule of Mommy and Me classes and the special events at Aura, including the Family Friendly nights.

Aura at the Seaport Hotel, 1 Seaport Lane, 617-385-4300
Tamo Bar at the Seaport Hotel, 1 Seaport Lane, 617-385-4315

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Mommy, Let's Make Bagels!

I love when the first thing my son says in the morning is, "Mommy, what are we cooking today?" He takes for granted that we connect and have fun when we cook together. He also takes complete pleasure in the final product. When his grandmother came over the day after we baked these bagels, he proudly brought her one in a bag, stating, "I am a great chef, Grandma!"

I originally discovered this bagel recipe here at the Smitten Kitchen website. I had made bagels before but they really just tasted like bread in a roll, rather than the H and H bagels that we eat by the dozen on trips to New York City. I loved the Smitten version so much that I went out and bought the book with the original recipe: Bread Baker's Apprentice by Peter Reinhart. It was clear that the difference was 4 fold: First, these require bread flour and malt syrup. The good news-both are available at the larger Whole Food's markets. Next, they require an overnight rest. For parents, this is actually fantastic. Raphael and I can make them the night before and in the morning, I just boil them (the final key difference from most recipes). Raphael loves choosing the toppings. This time we made some with cinnamon and sugar, some with sesame and mixed poppy and caraway seeds. We skip glazing the bagels with eggs due to his allergy, so it took some of FoodieDaddy's ingenuity to get the seeds to stick: We pressed down on the dough after removing them from the boiling water, creating a crater of sorts to hold the seeds. In less than 30 minutes from start to finish (the following morning), delicious bagels for the family.

Yes, there are a few pans (and many, many seeds) to clean up. But it is all worth being able to create your own bagel, to save the money you would have spent at the store and, of course, the fun of cooking with the kids.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

A Quick Stop in Porter Square-Dumplings from Qing Dao Garden and Stellabella Toys

I have previously addressed my love of Porter Square, Cambridge. However, I don't always have the time to meander around the wonderful stores so sometimes a pit-stop is all I can pull off. It is hard to resist checking out the goodies at Stellabella Toys. Aside from Magic Beans, it is truly my favorite. It has an endless array of toys that encourage creativity and imagination with minimal electronics while still being fun. The greatest strength is the music and art, building and manipulatives, science and nature toys. They have music classes for free and helpful service. I am never able to leave empty handed. They also have branches in Burlington and Inman Squre.

I had eaten previously at Qing Dao Garden and really enjoyed the authentic food. However, both Chowhounders and the Boston Globe addressed their dumplings and I knew I had to return. So, first, I sat and ate a meal of 3 delights dumplings---pork, shrimp and leek. These are ethereal heaven. It is one of the only local restaurants where the dumplings are handmade. It makes all the difference. The dough is chewy and provides the perfect foil for the incredibly juicy inside. As the waitress explained, they flash freeze them each day and then boil them just long enough to cook the pork through, but preserve the moistness inside. My husband doesn't eat pork, so we also tried the spinach and tofu. These are also delicious, and, of course, much healthier. The best news, though, is that you can buy a bag of these gems (they offer 6 varieties in total) to take home. They are only about $15.00 for 50 and you can't beat them for a healthy, delicious last minute meal. Boil them in water and serve with soy sauce, or throw them into chicken stock for a soup.

Qing Dao Garden Restaurant on Urbanspoon