Toraya, Arlington

Toraya in Arlington is one of those places that I would have driven right by had it not been for the endless source of positive reviews on Chowhound. A minimalistic sign outside is the only sense that in this tiny restaurant (with just 26 seats), is a Japanese restaurant. Perhaps, though, due to these accolades, the couple behind me waited for over an hour on a Saturday at 1:00 to sit down. As I was alone, I was able to quickly sit at the little sushi bar.

In fact, sushi is the centerpiece here. The waitress recommended chirashi sushi as the best way to try a variety of the chef’s best. What arrived was a generous portion of fish: included 2 to 3 pieces of shrimp, tamago, tuna, sea bass, fluke, sea trout, crabstick, salmon, eel, octopus, mackerel. This was served over a bed of delicious sushi rice. It wasn’t fancy, but the portion was certainly filling and with a bowl of miso soup it cost just $11.50.

Each white fish tasted so different, ranging from smoky to delicate. The salmon melted in my mouth. The tamago (egg omelet) was sweet with the sharpness of the wasabi.

Any questions anyone would have about the freshness of the fish was apparent as the chef and owner, Mr. Toraya, was literally fileting fish as I watched. Many other customers ordered the lunch specials in a bento box. The variety was impressive and cost under $14.00. It is also family friendly as I was one of the only people with children.

Would I drive out to Arlington just for Toraya...No? I admit that I am too big a fan of Oishii Sudbury. But if I am in the area, it was a treat.

Toraya Japanese Restaurant
890 Massachusetts Ave
Arlington, MA 02474
(781) 641-7477

Bambara at the Hotel Marlowe in Cambridge

One taste of Chef Jay Silva's sweet potatoes at the Eat, Drink and Be Fair event and I was intrigued enough to learn more about his cooking at Bambara in Cambridge. So, when an invitation appeared in my "In-Box" to try out his restaurant, I happily agreed.

Bambara is a perfect place for a "date night" for a few reasons. First, it is the apex of convenience. I suspect that like us, most parents have no time to actually shop. So the fact that it is literally attached to the Cambridgeside Galleria can make it a bonus to have a great meal after buying some clothes or gifts. When we arrived on a night with driving rain, we also were thankful for the inexpensive parking garage that makes it simple to find parking in Cambridge.

The restaurant itself has the potential to be pretentious and clubby. It is anything but. Instead, the modern furniture and warm service from our waiter, Mustafa, made us feel welcome.

The curved and plush booth was a romantic twist for my birthday meal, while a chance to have dessert by the open kitchen gave us a chance to chat with Chef Silva.

Mustafa helped to steer us towards drinks that are on their "Cocktails for a Cure" Menu. The Grapefruit Spritzer was crisp and refreshing while the Orange Blossom Fizz had a flowery taste from the St. Germain. We closed the night with a "Morning Daiquiri," which tasted better than the description of rum mixed with orange marmalade!

The Chef treated us to tasting portions of a number of the dishes to give us a sense of his cooking. While he trained at the Newbury College's Culinary Program, he cooked at both the Ritz and Pho Republique. So, he has both French and Asian influences on the menu. Yet he also calls his food "Contemporary American". What I noticed was a menu that had a nice balance of meat, fish and vegetarian options, as well as both small and more substantial options.

We started with two different appetizers. My husband had arancini filled with short ribs.

These risotto balls had the soothing comfort of meatloaf and were a substantial starter.

I enjoyed the arugula salad that was topped with spiced walnuts and fried goat cheese. It was gooey, rich and delicious.

Next, I enjoyed the lobster sliders. These also came with a delicious side of greens.

The buttery rolls could have been a light meal in themselves. What I enjoyed most was the fact that the lobster was warm and wasn't coated with mayonnaise.

Next, my husband had a tasting portion of the pumpkin risotto.

This was a dish that has potential. The pumpkin flesh and seeds added contrast and depth.

However, the balsamic was too acidic for this dish and marred the more soothing flavors. I tried another fall speciality: a spicy squash bisque with coconut milk. Tasting of curry in a bowl, it was warming and filling.

Next, I had the weakest dish of the night: tuna tartare. Perhaps I have been spoiled by other versions, but this would have been stronger if the tuna was chopped less finely (e.g. diced to retain the texture) and with less of the binder.

The best tuna tartare are the most simple, letting the meatiness of the tuna shine through.

However, my husband's main dish was a true success.

First, the skirt steak was cooked perfectly and the accompanying sauce added, rather than detracted from the dish. We couldn't stop eating the "frites."

These french fries are cooked in fresh oil in their own fryer. This means that they were clean and crisp. Yet they were also fried with fresh rosemary, adding a subtle pine to the dish. The slow roasted tomatoes that were served on the side were so good, that they could be the centerpiece of another dish.

My main dish had 3 good elements. The scallops, perhaps due to the Chef's French training, were seared perfectly.

The smoked tomatoes still tasted of summer, despite it being November. The pulled pork was rich and would have been delicious on its own, in say, a pork slider. I never grasped these parts together. Together they lost what made each one good enough on its own.

We ended the meal with two treats. First, we sat aside the open kitchen, giving us a chance to talk with Chef Silva.

We also enjoyed a decadently rich and sweet date cake (or pudding.) The vanilla ice cream from Christina's was as heavenly on its own as it was melting on top of the toffee like dessert.

After a few hours there, we were well fed and relaxed: a perfect feeling at the end of a long week.

Bambara, 25 Edwin H. Land Blvd (the Hotel Marlowe), Cambridge, 617-868-4444

Sweet Basil, Needham

Sweet Basil in Needham is probably one of the most common responses to the question, "What is a great place to eat in the suburbs?" And, in fact, when we were recently choosing a restaurant for my in-laws 50th wedding anniversary (!), over and over, people responded, "Sweet Basil." I had only been there once, 4 years ago. What I remembered was, yes, good food, but also long, long lines as they don't take reservations. And, when you are paying a babysitter, long lines can mean extra cost. Since that time, Sweet Basil doubled in size. But we also got enough tips to figure out how to navigate the wait. Finally, my mom was our wonderful (and free!) babysitter.

We arrived at 5:30 and had no wait at all. We were instantly taken by the kindness of chef and owner, Dave Becker and hostess/girlfriend/photographer, Nina Gallant.

We also were charmed by the little details of the restaurant: the little metal bucket that held the champagne we bought for the occassion (it is BYOB), the occassionally chipped plates, the open kitchen and flowers that were set up around the room.

We were immediately served the wonderful bread and scoop of homemade pesto while Nina helped direct us towards some delicious starters. Nina generously gave us a sample of the fried calamari. They were crisp and light, and the spicy marinara was so good that my father-in-law ate it up with the bread.

The wontons filled with shitakes and avocado were also tasty and set on a bed of salad and served with pineapple salsa.

However, my favorite was the filo wrapped gouda. The gouda oozed out of the crisp sheets, and onto the bread underneath. The dressing, made of balsamic vinegar and truffle oil, added an earthy taste.

Dried apricots and fresh strawberries put another layer of sweetness, without being cloying. Each of these appetizers, priced under $10.00 could easily be a light main dish.

A few points about the main dishes: the portions are enormous and can easily feed two people or one person for two meals. The titles are also deceptive in that a seemingly simple dish is often more complex. Take the homemade cheese ravioli with marinara.

One taste of the sauce made it clear that it was unique. And, in fact, Nina explained that before each portion is served, the chef toasts garlic that is then added to the marinara, along with ample amounts of fresh parsley and basil. These touches are what make this place so good.

My in-laws loved their veal marsala, noting that it was tender and flavorful.

The sauce is made with both marsala wine, port and dried fruit for balance and sweetness. The generous portion was served with pasta on the side.

My seafood stew was delicious. The sauce created from saffron and fennel.

It is normally served with potatoes, but I asked for fresh pasta instead. If you are so lucky, I highly recommend this as the pasta was not only delicious, but was a perfect foil for the sauce.

Sweet Basil doesn't offer desserts. The reality is that you will most likely be too full. But if you still have room, you can head to Abbott's Frozen Custard right next door or gelato down the street.

A few last points. If you do end up waiting in line, it is a congenial atmosphere and you might be lucky enough to be handed a few appetizers by Dave Becker himself. If you enjoy the food enough, you can also purchase the Sweet Basil cookbook (with photographs by Nina Gallant). Finally, and perhaps most importantly-bring cash and, if you are so inclined, drinks. There is a 5.00 fee for the bottle, which still is substantially less than other places.

Sweet Basil, 942 Great Plain Ave, Needham, 781-444-9600

The Best of Many Worlds: The New Rod Dee

I have often extolled the virtues of Rod Dee in Brookline. In fact, my write up of the original Rod Dee was one of my first blog posts. I'd go so far as to say that, along with Pho Viet's, it is my favorite restaurants. The food is so flavorful and complex.

They offer authentic Thai dishes that you would be hard pressed to find in many other restaurants. And it is all offered for a reasonable price. Yet, while I was willing to make the 25 minute trek for such good food, the lack of seating at the original Rod Dee made it difficult to eat at as a family (or even to count on for a date night with my husband.) Thankfully, another location opened in Washington Square at 1671 Beacon Street, just down the street from the other Beacon Street location. This location, titled the "New Rod Dee", offers much more seating and tables! (Unfortunately their 3rd location in the Fenway burned down in and is closed indefinitely.)

Make sure to go to either Rod Dee (rather than ordering off the take-out menu) as each day there are wonderful desserts and appetizers that are served at the counter, such as sweet roti and fresh shrimp rolls.The other reason to order directly at Rod Dee (rather than the take out menu) is due to the hand-written menu behind the counter. While the other dishes (the ones on the English take-out menu) are very good, on the hand-written menu you will find the true Thai dishes. I go further, though, and often ask the staff about options that are not on the English menus. In fact, that is how I discovered a phenomenal chicken dish. At first glance it looked like steamed chicken next to some white rice. However, the chicken was incredibly moist. But the rice was heaven: the chicken had cooked on the rice, permeating the rice with the most delicious taste and smell. To take the dish one step further was one of their amazing sauces. This must have at least 10 different ingredients. It is simultaneously sweet, garlicy, sour, spicy-just amazing. (Ironically, I recently discovered that it you can only get it at the original Rod Dee and just on Thursday.)

The "Roast Pork Thai Style" (listed on the speciality menu) consisted of sweet pork served with sticky rice. The best part was another complex sauce that was served on the side. I also tried the green papaya salad. Be aware that it comes filled with little dried shrimp and is spicier than versions I have had elsewhere.

I have had the Pad Kee Mao many times, and have always loved the crisp vegetables and spicy broccoli, with the contrast of the basil. Pad See Ew is another fabulous noodle dish, with thick rice noodles, broccoli and meat. It is a great option for people that don't enjoy spicy foods.

Asking for recommendations from the staff led me to try "Steamed Roast Pork". What arrived was a plate of tender pork on a plate of rice and covered with sweet sauce. On the side was a boiled egg and a vinegary hot sauce. Mixed together the combination was heavenly. The egg, an unexpected enjoyment, adding a creamy texture.

Under the "Special Rice Plates" is another great dish. Kao Nar Ped, or roasted duck, was similiar in that it sat on a bed of rice, served with a egg and greens. The aroma of five spice powder made the whole dish smell wonderful. While the duck was a bit overcooked, the sauce, a black sweet sauce, was wonderful with the rice.

Another favorite is the Boat Noodle Soup. I love it more for the wonderful broth, than the meatballs. I also recently had a version with big slices of roast pork (along with other porky items) and rolled fresh rice noodles. Again, the broth was full and scented with cilantro. A new favorite soup is the steamed duck with black mushroom. It consisted of homemade broth that was redolent of anise. On top was layered tender roast duck, cilantro, scallions and fried shallots all on a bed of noodles.I ordered the "spicy crispy chicken" and quickly understood why it is one of the most popular on the menu. The chicken is fried and then sauteed with green and red pepper slices.

It is then topped with Thai basil and coated in a sweet sauce. It has precisely that complexity of flavors and textures that defines the best Thai food: spicy, sweet, salty, crunchy, tender.

On another trip, the staff recommended the spicy Pat Pong. It consisted of slivers of bamboo shoots and red peppers with ground chicken, basil and string beans. It was coated in a nose tingling spicy sauce that begged to be followed with gulps of the sweet Thai iced tea.It was cooked at such a high heat that the beans were still crisp while retaining a smoky, earthy char. Another excellent spicy dish is Spicy Pad Thai, with thin rice noodles, peanuts and chilis.

I usually skip the appetizers to save room for the main dishes, but on a recent visit a friend ordered the flaky scallion pancakes:

Next time I may have to try the Bangkok fried rice which consists of 1/2 a marinated chicken with a huge helping of shrimp fried rice or the grilled roast pork that is marinated in a number of spices.

Whichever Rod Dee you choose, I can guarantee a fantastic meal. Or, if like me, you intentionally order enough that people next to you ask, "Is that just for you?", enough meals for a few days. Last point, though, BRING CASH. They don't take credit cards which just keeps the prices lower.

The "New Rod Dee" 1671 Beacon Street Brookline, MA 02445 (617) 738-1455
The other/original "Rod Dee" 1430 Beacon Street Brookline, MA 02446 (617) 738-4977

A Taste of the Book: Great Food Events at the Wellesley Booksmith

The Wellesley Booksmith has long been one of my favorites for children's books. The store has a table with little chairs and a big stuffed cushion that just invites my boys to sit down and snuggle up while I read from a selection of stories.  They have all my old favorites from "Cloudy with a Chance for Meatballs" to books by P.D. Eastman. But they also have a knowledgeable staff that carefully orders books that are as beautiful visually as they are to read. It is impossible for me to leave without buying 3 or 4 or 5. Between the low price, knowing I am supporting a great store, and the pleasure of reading these books to my boys, always makes it worth it. 

If possible, I have become a bigger fan of the store as they have teemed up with the Culinary Guild of New England to feature a series of speakers who are wonderful chefs and people who care about good food.  

I recently attended a lovely event in which they hosted 3 fascinating people: Chef Peter Davis of Henrietta's Table and author of "Fresh and Honest;" Jennifer Verrill Faddoul, from Verrill Farm (and baker of their incredible scones); and Janet Christensen of the Boston Public Market.  Each person spoke for 10 minutes about their passion and connection to local and sustainable foods, and then we all enjoyed some treats that were prepared by Chef Davis from his book.  

I took so much away from the evening, but each speaker had a few particular gems.

From Peter Davis: first, I was fascinated by the concept of his book. In "Fresh and Honest" he features interviews with farmers and purveyors that grow the products that he uses at his restaurant. He then matches them with a dish. For example, he served us spinach salad (from Sparrow Arc Farm in Maine) with chevre from Westfield Farm, along with pumpkin soup with sugar pumpkins from Verrill Farm.  He shared his years of trying to rely on local producers for his restaurant, as well as his connection to the working farms in New England. He also highlighted farms that have an educational bend, such as The Farm School in Athol that allows city kids to spend time on a farm and, in Chef Davis words, "It transforms the kids that are there. The class bully becomes the quietest one and some other kids goes right in there and just start milking the cows." I asked Chef Davis how he responds to people that believe that local food, being more expensive, is elitest. He noted, "It isn't that much more money because the quality and shelf life is so much better. If you buy mesculun at the supermarket, it can become compost in 3 days. But buy it at a farmer's market and it is good for a week. Also, the fresher items are, the healthier."  On a practical note, he pointed out that you can buy a significant amount of root vegetables at farmer's markets and farms such as the Verrill Farm now and store them in a cool place to use all winter.  He reminded us that by shopping at the farms and farmer's markets, we are directly supporting farmers. As he pointed out, "farmers are up from sunup to sundown plus.  Everyone thinks that farmers take the winter off. But they spend all year planning."  Finally, I was intrigued by his point that it matters less whether a farmer is organic, than getting to know the individual farmer and washing greens well. As Chef Davis pointed out, the regulations around getting organic certification are so complicated and expensive, that great farmers use organic methods without the term. 

Jennifer Verrill gave us a direct sense of the work on the farm. She grew up on the farm with her parents, Stephen and Joan. I didn't realize that Verrill Farm actually consists of 140 acres of farmable land, and 100 acres of conservation land. But it did help me to understand why the land surrounding the farm is so beautiful. She described the evolution of Verrill from a dairy farm, to a farmstand, to the addition of the bakery, to the recent opening of their new farmstand. (The first collapsed in a fire last year.)  She also shared her tips for encouraging children to enjoy their vegetables: take kids to farms, bring them to festivals, let the dig and get dirty, compost at home or at school.

I was captivated by Janet Christensen for a few reasons. First, this unassuming looking woman is the foundation of so much, yet unlike many stars, I doubt that more than a handful of people know her name. Yet I came to realize that she is one of the core (if not THE core) figures in the creation of so many farmer's markets in Massachusetts. She has worn more hats than I could ever do, including being the education director at the Mass. Dept. of Food & Agriculture, Food Editor at the Boston Herald-Traveler and the founding member of the Boston Public Market Association.  The Association is trying to create a year round indoor Public Market, similar to Pike Place in Seattle, that can provide Boston residents with farm fresh goods through the winter and without having to battle summer rains.  Janet Christensen pointed out that prices at a farmer's market are actually a "bargain" as farmers work so hard trying to "feed the nation."  Janet educated us about the need for a winter market, the benefit of the farmer's markets in general and the complicated politics that accompany those endeavors.

I left the evening inspired by their words and commitment to providing our families with good food and am appreciative to the Booksmith for hosting the event. 

Next up:  On Tuesday, November 10th, Lidia Bastianich will be signing copies of her new cookbook, Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy from 5:00 to 6:30 before she heads over to Alta Strada for a special dinner.  Then, just one week later, on November 17th, Chef Barbara Lynch will have a discussion before providing a tasting of items from her new cookbook, Stir.  This is a free event, but you are encouraged to call the Booksmith and RSVP.

Wellesley Booksmith, 82 Central Street, Wellesley  781-431-1160

Henrietta's Table, 1 Bennett Street (in the Charles Hotel), Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-661-5005

Verrill Farm, Concord 

Boston Public Market Association

2 Reasons to go to Newtonville

In Newtonville are two great places that I am tempted to say are worth the drive.  Bread and Chocolate Café-This place is so easy to miss. But once you discover it, it is hard to resist  .I have gone out of my way to pick up their ginger and chocolate scone. Their scones consist of huge chunks of whatever special addition they are using that day, just binded together with enough cakey scone.This means that dark chocolate is nestled right up against the spicy ginger. The recent pistachio-apricot had entire nuts that retained their crunch, making each bite a complete pleasure. I also enjoyed a sweet corn scone with sage. The piney sage was an unexpected taste in the moist scone. They have a range of decadent cupcakes, tarts, cupcakes, crossants and coffee cakes. They also offer savory items such as salads and sandwiches. Pam of Cave Cibum also told me that they have delicious cannelles (one of my absolute favorite foods), but I haven't been lucky enough to see them when I stop by. One more reason to return.  Last tip: I came across chef and owner Eunice Feller selling their goodies at the Newton Farmer's Market this summer, so check for them when the market opens again next spring.  

Taste Cafe: Just across the street is the unassuming Taste Café. (In fact I never would have thought to stop here if Pam hadn't pointed this place out to me, as well.) Owner Nik Krankl took over this cafe in 2008. This place is unusual for a few reasons. First, unlike most coffee stores, Nick rotates the type of espresso that he is offering. Believing that customers will enjoy trying a range of good espresso, he spends a day making sure he has pressed it perfectly. In fact, to make sure it was just right, Nick bought a Synesso espresso machine. Why is this so special? Because he can calibrate the machine to just the right degree for each new espresso. He also started using High Lawn milk from the Berkshires. This delicious milk adds a distinct richness to each sip. I know little about how to make a good espresso, but I can tell you this-not only are his cappuccinos actually beautiful, but it was just delicious. They also just expanded their menu and have crepes, sandwiches and salads, which I haven’t yet had a chance to try.

Bread and Chocolate Café 108 Madison Avenue, Newtonville 617-243-0500
Taste Cafe 311 Walnut St., Newtonville 617-332-6886

Technicolor, Tofu and Homemade Dumplings: H-Mart in Burlington

Yes, I am one of those people who frequently checked the Chowhound posts to find out when H-Mart in Burlington, the enormous Korean grocery store, would open.  I am also one of those people who has been disappointed by the slow demise of Super 88 in Allston into a skeletal store with limited options. While Super 88 has started to improve again, it was hard to ignore the positive reviews of people who had visited other H-Marts in the country.

I have to say, after one visit, I am definitely a fan.  Like the Super 88, H-Mart has two separate parts: the grocery store and the food court.  When you first walk in, you enter at Tous Les Jours, a Korean-French bakery.  

In addition to rich tarts, you can get baked goods filled with sweet creams, red bean paste or coconut amongst other yummy choices.  There is also a sushi stand, a noodle stand and one offering Indian food.  

However, I am glad that I found my way to Young Chow Loo. Opened by Hyung Tae Park and his wife Eun Sun Lee, they just moved to the United States from Korea two months ago to open this little restaurant!  In the back, I was told they have a "famous chef" who makes everything, from noodles to soups, by hand.  I tried the homemade King dumplings that were prepared by the owners themselves. 

I enjoyed watching them fold the dough around the pork and vegetable filling.  And the dumplings were wonderful. They were similar to Chinese steam buns-soft, doughy and perfect when dipped in soy sauce.  They alone were worth the trip.  Next time I will try the Jin Pang or dumplings filled with sweet bean. I also ordered the Kkan pung gi.

 It is listed as "chopped roast chicken" but it is actually pan fried chunks of chicken coated in a hot-sweet Korean sauce and served with a rainbow of vegetables and chili peppers. Eat it immediately while it is still crisp.

The store itself offers more than just Korean foods. There was a large assortment of Indian spices and curries, as well as Chinese, Japanese and Thai foods.  In the back you can buy everything from fabulous chopsticks for toddlers (my son loves his!) to rice cookers.

However, the Korean selection is fantastic. There are tofus of every style, buckets of homemade pickled vegetables and kimchi, house made Korean bbq beef and pork, and multicolored prepared vegetables including many that I had never heard of. 

You can try fresh, frozen or packaged desserts.  There is an entire aisle of noodles and ramen!  Or you can wander among the enormous produce section that included everything from "banana flower" to Asian pears to fresh dates. 

 The prices are reasonable and, unlike the Super 88, everything is labeled in English which is perfect if you are not fluent in Korean!  

I made sure to buy my share of one particular discovery: Hi Chew mango.  The blog world introduced me to this candy that is reminiscent of Starburst but tastes like the freshest of mangoes. It comes in other flavors, but this is my favorite...so much that I bought 10 packs!  

Until my family and I can afford to head to Korea, we will be happy to explore H-Mart.

H-Mart, 3 Old Concord Road, Burlington MA, 781-272-0320