Friday, July 8, 2011

Waffles Make the Wait Easier: The Paramount in Beacon Hill

My five year old son has spent far too much of his life in and out of doctor's offices. So, with another recent visit to Massachusetts General Hospital, I knew we had to do something wonderful together. My boy adores pancakes, requesting, "Best Recipe Pancakes" (a fantastic recipe from the Cook's Illustrated series) daily. But, he had never had a waffle! And I knew just where to bring him. We strolled down Beacon Hill and into the open doors of the Paramount Cafe on Charles Street. It was perfect for a young child-you order at the counter and then can sit and watch the world go by in the moments it takes to get your food. And when it came, he was in breakfast nirvana, loading blueberries into the crisp crevices of his tender malted waffle. At the end of the morning, he didn't tell more stories of the doctor. Instead he regaled his little brother with his first and favorite new waffle restaurant. Which, of course, he insists we need to all visit again together.

The Paramount, 44 Charles Street, Boston, MA

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

An Unexpected Ode to the Vegetable at Bondir

I emphasized pig each time I tried to convince a friend to join me at Bondir, I love house cured salumi and Chef/Owner Jason Bond has a strong reputation as part of the "snout to tail" revolution. Yet since eating there a month ago, what I recall most are the vegetables and the herbs. Perhaps that is Chef Bond's gift-transforming not just meat, but vegetables, too.

We were first served 3 breads that were made in house: a nine grain, caraway current and "The Sea." This final, unusual option was marbled with dried seaweed, squid ink and dehydrated shrimp. I loved the tender crumb of the nine grain and caraway, but will pass on the briny Sea. The menu changes daily and the restaurant offers both full and half portions of their dishes. So, we were easily able to try a number of different dishes, plus dessert of course!Our first dish was a light, lemony Garden Sorrel Vichyssoise. The soup itself was lovely, marred only by overly salty smoked soy hazelnuts. A homemade burrata was served with shaved green and purple asparagus, topped with chili oil vinaigrette. I loved the fresh preparation so much that I tried to emulate it at home with fresh asparagus from Verrill Farm.

Another favorite of the night, pictured at the top of this post, was their "Root cellar vegetables, roasted and glace with teff polenta and mustard oil." The dish included 12 different vegetables ranging from beets to bok choy to salsify. Each vegetable was cooked perfectly and retained its own uniqueness.
Next, asparagus and calaminth risotto with a ragu of Scituate lobster, RI mussels, periwinkles and Mangalitsa prosciutto. The dish was brothy and fresh, full of herbs.
The weakest dish of the night was listed as "Garden Herb Pappardelle with braised chicken, Georgia peas, sorrel and ricotta." While the ricotta was wonderful, the pappardelle was tough and heavy. Even more surprising was the chicken that was so overdone it was almost inedible.
Ironically, though, our other favorite dish of the night was also chicken. This time it was a roasted chicken breast from Crystal Farms, Pennsylvania. The skin was crisp and chicken was the juiciest I have had. It sat atop Red Russian kale that was as crispy, salty and addictive as potato chips. Below that, tender black lentils and a sweet white flint cornmeal cake. Then lardo glistened on top.
Our other main dish was also memorable: Scituate Scallops that were pan-seared to perfection, tender and sweet. We swooned over the morel and mousseron mushroom ragu with burdock root and baby bok choy. Here sweet Cicley, a myrrh like herb was used.
The dessert menu was so fanciful that we HAD to try each one. We savoured the cheese: Ascutney Mountain, a raw cow's milk cheese from Cobb Hill Vermont. It was served with a wonderfully bitter Seville orange marmalade and pear leather. The freshly made crostata consisted of a buttery, rich shell enveloping almond cream and braised rhubarb. I adore rhubarb and appreciated that it was kept sour, with a trace of sugar. It was topped with a lemon mousseline that melted creamy streams down the tart. The highlight of the cherry trifle was the meringue brulee. Finally, a chocolate panna cotta, a cross between jello and chocolate pudding, served with rhubarb jelly, cocoa nibs, pistachio and seville orange puree, that fed the chocolate lover in each of us. But Bondir stepped in with one last treat: homemade chocolates, as thin as paper, scattered with pumpkin seeds.

It is easy to enjoy a restaurant like Bondir. The atmosphere is homey and the service was attentive without being pretentious. Too, though, the daily changing menu means that a return visit is guaranteed to be full of unexpected pleasures.

Bondir, 279A Broadway, Cambridge

Thursday, June 30, 2011

The Surprise of a Sandwich at A & J King Bakery in Salem

On my way home from a respite in Rockport, I steered off to Salem, hoping to find crusty loaves of bread at A & J King Bakery. And, in fact, I did make it home with a bag full of a heavenly chewy, flavorful pain au levain that I devoured with my sons that night. But what I didn't expect was to be able to sit down for a bit, drinking coffee from Coffee By Design in Portland. I didn't anticipate the tender and crumbly pecan shortbread. And I certainly didn't plan on thoroughly loving my Banh Mi, of all things. Sitting between two pieces of their French bread, lay Niman Ranch's lean smoked ham, coated with homemade mayonnaise and moistened with house-made pickled vegetables. And best of all, the bakery is just close enough to the Peabody Essex Museum to make it a ritual stop on a day trip.

A & J King Bakery, 48 Central Street, Salem, MA

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

To Sit and Enjoy Sushi: Daikanyama, Chestnut Hill

It was one of those days (weeks, really). I needed peace. I need calm. And when I crave that, the food I crave is sushi. I will never tire of the incredible sushi at Oishii. However, the Chestnut Hill location, with its minimal seats, does not lend itself to relaxation. After reading some positive reviews of Daikanyama at the Chestnut Hill Mall, I decided to treat myself. (I had finished a year teaching, after all!). And it was worth it. The restaurant itself is soothing, with soft water fountains and shades of browns and tans. And for just about $20, I had a delicious meal. It began with a treat: a warm towel to clean my hands and face. Then, a small salad. It distinguished itself from others I've had by the selection of field greens and a sweet-sesame enriched dressing. Then, a soothing miso soup, filled with not only tofu and seaweed but small dice of daikon. Next, 3 perfect appetizers. Steamed and chilled broccoli with sesame. Eggplant broiled so perfectly it was silky and sweet, sitting on a lemon slice. And my favorite: pieces of seaweed, almost candied, chewy and sweet. And all this before the sushi and sashmi selection arrived. Salmon, buttery and tender; tuna-filling and sweet; hirame-light and chewy; fresh shrimp and a tuna roll. Finally, the meal closed with sweet bites of pineapple and orange. I left refreshed and satiated, content to have another option for just the meal I needed.

Daikanyama, 199 Boylston Street (Route 9), Chestnut Hill, MA

Monday, June 27, 2011

Rediscovering Rockport at the Emerson Inn By the Sea

My year as a teacher ended and I need a get-away, fast. I wanted a place to write, a place to retreat, some place beautiful and within an hour or so of Boston. I realized, though, that what I wanted most was the ocean. I came to Rockport as a last resort. The Rockport of my childhood memories was full of touristy shops laden with salt water taffy, fudge and identical T-shirts. It was packed with cars and the smell of fresh lobster. But the location fit the bill in so many other ways. And then the kind people at the historic Emerson Inn by the Sea gave me a rate for a room that looked out over their lawn towards the ocean. How could I say no? I couldn't have been happier. Yes, there are the tourist shops, but Rockport also has beautiful art studios, houses from the 1700 and 1800s and charming streets to meander down. For many people, the highlight would be the ocean. For me it is the glorious and majestic granite boulders, garnered from years of local quarrying. Some lay strewn on lawns. Others nestle against the ocean, giving the waves a chance to batter them still. And in June, all this is set against wild green and roses in a multitude of colors. The Emerson Inn itself is set in a neighborhood that offers paths directly to the ocean, with huge rock formations that are perfect for sitting, daydreaming, sketching, writing and reading. Pouring rain kept me from the enjoying the lawn chairs or heated outdoor pool. But I sat outside on their porch, watching the birds dip down into the Atlantic. And at the end of a wet day, the Inn offered me chocolate covered strawberries and chocolate dipped sugar cookies, with tea and coffee. Sitting in their comfortable parlor, still looking out at the ocean and skyline, I rested. At night, my room was perfect. A queen bed. Internet access. A bathtub. Quiet. Breakfast the next morning meant a range of baked goods, fruit, coffee, cereal, pancakes, bacon and a egg souffle. I had hoped to eat on the terrace, but the boundless rain had wet it entirely. Instead, I returned to the main room to sketch, to write, to read.

Emerson Inn By The Sea, 1 Cathedral Ave, Rockport, MA

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

A Strawberry Feast at Hanson's Farm in Framingham

Just minutes beyond the sprawl of big box stores and chain restaurants is a delightful respite: Hanson's Farm in Framingham. And this past Sunday, my sons and I took advantage of the weather to enjoy warm strawberries fresh from their fields. We crouched in the straw and sought out the "beauties", gorgeous deep red berries. We piled them in our green baskets, glad to finally have the sun and time to pick together. I appreciated that you can drive out to the fields, though a good stroller can get you there as well. There are horses to check out as you enter, Topaz the goat bleating, "Hello" and, if you are lucky, freshly-laid eggs from their Araucana chickens in pale blue. Berries are $2.50 a pound. Hanson's adds $2.00 a picker, but it is free for pickers under 5. Inspired by Hanson's shortcake, I went home to rinse off my now-rose-colored boys, and then I baked. Dorie Greenspan's Baking provided recipes to make a tart and a cake. For the adults (and my food-loving 3 year old), sweet tart dough, covered in pastry cream and topped with lime zest and sliced berries. I also made a simple white cake (Greenspan's "Perfect Party Cake"), to slice with more strawberries. The rest, so delicate, I rinsed, trimmed and froze on cookie sheets for frozen yogurt and ice cream as summer extends. Hanson's Farm, 20 Nixon Road, Framingham

Thursday, June 9, 2011

A Second Season, A Second Garden


My sons and I have lived in our home for just over a year. Perhaps we will measure time by our garden. We remember last year as the year of the CUCUMBER. Each day my boys stuffed themselves on long, thin, sweet cucumbers that exploded each day. I couldn't stop popping sweet Sungold tomatoes, finally succumbing to a slow roast that caramelized them, tweaking their taste slightly. The 2010 garden wasn't pretty. But it was successful. And for me it began a love affair with the gardening itself. I fell for the ability to plant and not worry. To know that a weed or a lost plant would not make the world tumble down. Instead I could pick the weed and replace the plant and all would be good.

We planned this year's garden for months. The boys insisted, insisted!, on fruit. So after questioning all the gardeners we knew, as well as the fine staff at Russells in Wayland, we chose a few fruits. First, we planted two blueberry plants in a wide pot. At the suggestion of Russells, we chose a mid- and late-bloom plant, put together to cross pollinate. So far? Ummm...some buds, but we are hopeful.
The strawberries have proven ironic. My sons were devastated when some suburban animal (a rabbit, perhaps) devoured last year's measly crop of 2 strawberries. So, this year we planted one in strawberry planter that sits high on a table, away from hopping bunnies. The other is in planter, overlooking the patio. We had extra plants and I offered them up to our neighbor. They planted the strawberries in flower pots on the other side of the house. As of today? They have about 2 dozen strawberries. We have...well...3! My sons have stayed optimistic and moved our planter to the other side, too, hoping that sun was the factor here. Science at its best. They also planted a honeydew and a cantaloupe because, well, who can resist planting a melon? Our friend Seth brought over blackberry and raspberry cuttings from his yard, but they died, perhaps victims of too much heat and shade, as I am still learning where to plant things.

I let the boys chose the tomatoes and a rainbow emerged: purple, gold, green and red are all sitting, waiting for consistent warmth. I skipped last year's broccoli and traded it for cauliflower. We are also trying to be more careful with carrots which never grew beyond spindly strands.

As for the rest of the garden? It is slow going with a few bright lights. Though the cold weather snagged my first set of basil, I replanted and have plenty for tossing on pasta or grilled pizza. My first batch of arugula and rainbow chard lauded me a few meals, though they recently both died. And we also lost our first set of cucumber plants! I am suspecting that I haven't quite got the hang of how often to water, whether to add some sort of fertilizer and how to manage this jumpy weather. My other irony? As we started our garden I "pruned" some leaves. Luckily, my best friend and gardener galore, Seth, pointed out that actually, I was pruning lettuce! So, the lettuce I planted last year is growing by the glorious handful, perfect for poached eggs and tossed salads. (Seth also bought my son the BEST birthday present: seeds and four pots for him to plant his own beans!)

In the meantime, though, we water. We prune. We eat fresh mint. We wait for radishes, and beets, snow peas and green beans, tomatoes, berries and yes, cucumbers.