The Paramount, 44 Charles Street, Boston, MA
Friday, July 8, 2011
Waffles Make the Wait Easier: The Paramount in Beacon Hill
The Paramount, 44 Charles Street, Boston, MA
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
An Unexpected Ode to the Vegetable at Bondir
We were first served 3 breads that were made in house: a nine grain, caraway current and "The Sea." This final, unusual option was marbled with dried seaweed, squid ink and dehydrated shrimp. I loved the tender crumb of the nine grain and caraway, but will pass on the briny Sea. The menu changes daily and the restaurant offers both full and half portions of their dishes. So, we were easily able to try a number of different dishes, plus dessert of course!
Another favorite of the night, pictured at the top of this post, was their "Root cellar vegetables, roasted and glace with teff polenta and mustard oil." The dish included 12 different vegetables ranging from beets to bok choy to salsify. Each vegetable was cooked perfectly and retained its own uniqueness.
Next, asparagus and calaminth risotto with a ragu of Scituate lobster, RI mussels, periwinkles and Mangalitsa prosciutto. The dish was brothy and fresh, full of herbs.
The weakest dish of the night was listed as "Garden Herb Pappardelle with braised chicken, Georgia peas, sorrel and ricotta." While the ricotta was wonderful, the pappardelle was tough and heavy. Even more surprising was the chicken that was so overdone it was almost inedible.
Ironically, though, our other favorite dish of the night was also chicken. This time it was a roasted chicken breast from Crystal Farms, Pennsylvania. The skin was crisp and chicken was the juiciest I have had. It sat atop Red Russian kale that was as crispy, salty and addictive as potato chips. Below that, tender black lentils and a sweet white flint cornmeal cake. Then lardo glistened on top.
Our other main dish was also memorable: Scituate Scallops that were pan-seared to perfection, tender and sweet. We swooned over the morel and mousseron mushroom ragu with burdock root and baby bok choy. Here sweet Cicley, a myrrh like herb was used.
The dessert menu was so fanciful that we HAD to try each one. We savoured the cheese: Ascutney Mountain, a raw cow's milk cheese from Cobb Hill Vermont. It was served with a wonderfully bitter Seville orange marmalade and pear leather.
The freshly made crostata consisted of a buttery, rich shell enveloping almond cream and braised rhubarb. I adore rhubarb and appreciated that it was kept sour, with a trace of sugar. It was topped with a lemon mousseline that melted creamy streams down the tart. The highlight of the cherry trifle was the meringue brulee. 
Finally, a chocolate panna cotta, a cross between jello and chocolate pudding, served with rhubarb jelly, cocoa nibs, pistachio and seville orange puree, that fed the chocolate lover in each of us. But Bondir stepped in with one last treat: homemade chocolates, as thin as paper, scattered with pumpkin seeds.

It is easy to enjoy a restaurant like Bondir. The atmosphere is homey and the service was attentive without being pretentious. Too, though, the daily changing menu means that a return visit is guaranteed to be full of unexpected pleasures.
Bondir, 279A Broadway, Cambridge
Thursday, June 30, 2011
The Surprise of a Sandwich at A & J King Bakery in Salem
And, in fact, I did make it home with a bag full of a heavenly chewy, flavorful pain au levain that I devoured with my sons that night. But what I didn't expect was to be able to sit down for a bit, drinking coffee from Coffee By Design in Portland.A & J King Bakery, 48 Central Street, Salem, MA
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
To Sit and Enjoy Sushi: Daikanyama, Chestnut Hill
Daikanyama, 199 Boylston Street (Route 9), Chestnut Hill, MA
Monday, June 27, 2011
Rediscovering Rockport at the Emerson Inn By the Sea
Emerson Inn By The Sea, 1 Cathedral Ave, Rockport, MA
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
A Strawberry Feast at Hanson's Farm in Framingham
Thursday, June 9, 2011
A Second Season, A Second Garden

My sons and I have lived in our home for just over a year. Perhaps we will measure time by our garden. We remember last year as the year of the CUCUMBER. Each day my boys stuffed themselves on long, thin, sweet cucumbers that exploded each day. I couldn't stop popping sweet Sungold tomatoes, finally succumbing to a slow roast that caramelized them, tweaking their taste slightly. The 2010 garden wasn't pretty. But it was successful. And for me it began a love affair with the gardening itself. I fell for the ability to plant and not worry. To know that a weed or a lost plant would not make the world tumble down. Instead I could pick the weed and replace the plant and all would be good.
We planned this year's garden for months. The boys insisted, insisted!, on fruit. So after questioning all the gardeners we knew, as well as the fine staff at Russells in Wayland, we chose a few fruits. First, we planted two blueberry plants in a wide pot. At the suggestion of Russells, we chose a mid- and late-bloom plant, put together to cross pollinate. So far? Ummm...some buds, but we are hopeful.

The strawberries have proven ironic. My sons were devastated when some suburban animal (a rabbit, perhaps) devoured last year's measly crop of 2 strawberries. So, this year we planted one in strawberry planter that sits high on a table, away from hopping bunnies. The other is in planter, overlooking the patio. We had extra plants and I offered them up to our neighbor. They planted the strawberries in flower pots on the other side of the house. As of today? They have about 2 dozen strawberries. We have...well...3! My sons have stayed optimistic and moved our planter to the other side, too, hoping that sun was the factor here. Science at its best. They also planted a honeydew and a cantaloupe because, well, who can resist planting a melon? Our friend Seth brought over blackberry and raspberry cuttings from his yard, but they died, perhaps victims of too much heat and shade, as I am still learning where to plant things.
I let the boys chose the tomatoes and a rainbow emerged: purple, gold, green and red are all sitting, waiting for consistent warmth. I skipped last year's broccoli and traded it for cauliflower. We are also trying to be more careful with carrots which never grew beyond spindly strands.
As for the rest of the garden? It is slow going with a few bright lights. Though the cold weather snagged my first set of basil, I replanted and have plenty for tossing on pasta or grilled pizza. My first batch of arugula and rainbow chard lauded me a few meals, though they recently both died. And we also lost our first set of cucumber plants! I am suspecting that I haven't quite got the hang of how often to water, whether to add some sort of fertilizer and how to manage this jumpy weather. My other irony? As we started our garden I "pruned" some leaves. Luckily, my best friend and gardener galore, Seth, pointed out that actually, I was pruning lettuce! So, the lettuce I planted last year is growing by the glorious handful, perfect for poached eggs and tossed salads. (Seth also bought my son the BEST birthday present: seeds and four pots for him to plant his own beans!)
In the meantime, though, we water. We prune. We eat fresh mint. We wait for radishes, and beets, snow peas and green beans, tomatoes, berries and yes, cucumbers.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)